Organics are in the news. Over the weekend, consumers were paying attention to whether major organic milk producers are really honoring the spirit of organic foods, and last week, media outlets were buzzing about how just about every mainstream grocery store is launching its own organic foods line, from Safeway to SuperValu. Organics are getting cheaper, and the move by huge retailers to expand organic offerings may mean that the demand for pesticide-free goods will change the way farmers in the U.S., and elsewhere, operate.Nowhere is the presence of organic products more incongruous than on Wal-Mart shelves. Wal-Mart is doubling the amount of organic produce in its grocery shelves for its shoppers "convenience" (and, one would imagine, to allow the retailer the ability to charge more -- and pocket higher margins as a result). The chain is also offering organic cotton clothing and organic baby formula. And while a few customers are surely happy, it seems, the larger response is... oh, no.
I feel your pain, oh ye people who are committed to organics. And I have to ask: is Wal-Mart, by trying to do good, actually doing bad?
I must disclaim. I want everyone to be able to eat organic produce and clothe their babies in unbleached organic onesies. I wish that organic farming, instead of suffering along at a measly 2% of all U.S. agriculture, was more like 98 or 99 or 110%. I want the groundwater to be clean of chemicals and my children to never know a carcinogen.
But part of the spirit of organics (it seems) is the romance of it all. And by romance, I also mean sustainability. Fair trade. Gentle on the earth. And all that. When I think organics, I think of my local farmer's market, where I buy heirloom garlic from hayseeds in suspenders and plaid shirts, and have to prevent my fingers from poking into the wrinkles of my favorite mushroom grower. It's the idea of buying from a farmer who earns a living wage selling directly to the end user, or at the very least, the nearest grocery store.
I certainly don't imagine a Wal-Mart process, with efficient distribution and RFID-tagged pallets and optimized prices. How can there be just-in-time wild mushrooms? It's wrong... right?
Does adding Wal-Mart into the equation, with its continuous drive to get prices low (for its customers and its suppliers), destroy the market for my delightful garlic farmers? Does it go against the very soul of organics?
If Wal-Mart does organics, will organics ever be the same?
[All photos Sarah Gilbert]











Reader Comments (Page 1 of 2)
5-08-2006 @ 9:01PM
Larry B. said...
NO WIN ALLOWED!
At least not for the dedicated Wal-Mart haters. Wal-Mart is "bad" because it does not offer those things that are "good and healthy". . . Wal-Mart is "bad" because it does offer those things that are "good and healthy" and, perhaps, more affordable; making them available to more shoppers.
If the premice is correct that organic foods and other things are better for folks, then it would be presumed that "caring folks" would want them to be available to the largest number of folks. In order for that goal to be realized, then it would make sense that for these items which have heretofore been rather pricey, their supporters and advocates would find joy in the opening of new distribution channels which bring the price down and result in that wider availability. But NOOOO!!!!!!
The elite set who proclaim to be the wise benfactors and protectors of all wiuld rather grouse about Wal-Mart than make these "good products" available to those folks for whom they claim to care for, those who haven't been able to afford Whole Foods or other such upscale outlets or dirve some considerable distance to get to a Farmer's Market.
No one. . . not even Wal-Mart is preventing anyone else from continuing to shop at the store or market, or roadside stand of their preference. And no one is forcing organic food and fiber crop farmers to sell to Wal-Mart.
Doggone it if your real agenda is not revealed. . . opposition to the free market. . . and your hypocrisy as well. . . claiming to be the benefactor of the poor and needy while continuing to advocate and participate in those activities and practices that demonstrate and assure the maintanance of your own exclusivity and snob appeal in being able to do those things for yourself and your family that "set you apart" as doing something "better."
Do as you like but for goodness sake be honest in telling about it.
For my part I'm, going to take advantage of those good Wal-Mart prices, good Kroger prices, and from t ime to time enjoy a stroll through the Farmer's Market and enjoy the ambiance of that which is "real" (organic or non-organic) while continuing to avoid the plastic snobbery of a large number of the Whole Foods shoppers.
Larry B.
5-13-2006 @ 8:32PM
Pam said...
When mass production hits the organic market, you should worry. Keep in mind that laws defining exactly what "organic" means are varied from state to state, and as far as I know, there are no strict federal guidlines defining organic. What Wal-Mart claims as "organic" might not be what your local organic farmer claims it to be. Your best bet is to buy locally and support your community growers.
5-13-2006 @ 8:49PM
Paula said...
I personally think it is great that organic food is becoming more available and affordable. I try to buy as much organic as possible, but it's been hard to find and afford as much organic food and products as I would like to buy. I'm sure there are many other middle class people like myself who feel the same way. I was also under the impression that organics have a Federal "organic certified" label.
5-13-2006 @ 8:57PM
Mark Meltser said...
We provide organic sunflower seed oil based on 1 litre, 3 litre & 5 litre bottles at a fraction of the retail cost. Consumers can contact us direct by calling (646) 235-1557. We are direct Importers of the Organic sunflower seed oil.
5-13-2006 @ 9:04PM
M. Lynch said...
I WOULD NEED TO KNOW THAT ALL GOODS ARE 'ORGANIC CERTIFIED' WITH THE APPROPRIATE LABELS AND NUMBERS WHICH COULD BE CHECKED.
SADLY, ALL TOO MANY PRODUCTS ARE DEEMED 'ORGANIC' AND ARE SO BY THE WORD...LACKING TRUE CERTIFICATION.
BUYER-BE-AWARE.
5-13-2006 @ 9:36PM
Pat said...
Sarah Gilbert, your article pegs you as one of the Walmart haters. People who grow organic food and products are free to sell to Walmart or not. People in the US are free to buy from Walmart or not. That's the beauty of this country. You have the choice. You should celebrate this instead of penning negativity. Go look up Snapper Lawnmowers. The owner of this company chose not to sell his product to Walmart. No problem. He is free to choose. Walmart is unlikely to destroy your garlic grower's business. The contractors and builders who are buying up our farmland, turning it into neighborhoods, are going to be the ones to do that.
5-13-2006 @ 9:41PM
angelina maya said...
I think ALL produce, meat, and milk should be organic and in addition to wal-mart selling organics mini markets and smaller grocery stores should also sell oranics city dwellers do not have easy access to wal-mart so having organic produce there does not help us that much.
5-13-2006 @ 10:18PM
LINDA CONNER said...
I LOVE THE IDEA, JUST AS LONG AS IT IS GROWN IN THE USA AND NOT OUTSOURCED TO OTHER COUNTRIES LIKE THE REST OF THEIR JUNK FROM CHINA. KEEP AMERICANS WORKING, THEN I MIGHT SHOP THERE. I WILL KEEP SHOPPING AT MOTHERS' HEALTH FOOD STORE TO GET THE FRESH CERTIFIED ORGANIC FOOD. I LOVE THEIR FRESH RAW WALNUTS, ALMONDS AND OTHER HEALTHFUL CEREALS, RICE MILK, AND SNACKS TOO!
5-13-2006 @ 11:08PM
Teri Lee said...
I have to agree with Larry B.; am sick and tired of Wal*Mart bashing.
If Sarah Gilbert doesn't care for Wal*Mart and its organics, then, don't shop there. It's a pretty great thing that the normal, average, hard-working person can finally afford to purchase organics for their families.
Ms. Gilbert, and other detractors, get off it and get off Wal*Mart's back and, off your snobby soap boxes!
5-13-2006 @ 11:08PM
John Richard Fortunate to be alive!!! said...
Eating healthy contributes to general health. Children(0-18) should not be encouraged to drink pop, sugary drinks , or anything other than water, natural fruit juices, milk(organic), or "HEALTHY" alternatives.And pop, artificially sweeetened drinks, or anything else not "WHOLESOME" should be permenently banned from all and any learning institutions including Pre-Schools, Grade schools,Middle schools, High schools, and even higher learning venues!(i.e. Colleges)
Before it's too late!!!
5-13-2006 @ 11:17PM
Kerry said...
Give us a break!!!! Romance!? Sounds more like rich white ---I can have it because I can afford it; and you don't deserve it because you dont--- sort of an attitude. Maybe it would benefit people on the lower socioeconomic scale to actually be able to afford premium quality,clean, fresh, and pesticide free food and products. Are you trying to tell us that you actually have a problem with that!????? Grow the ---- up!
Oh, and have a really nice day!
5-13-2006 @ 11:44PM
El Alacrán said...
This is not about bringing more organic products within the reach of more people. Wal Mart is very well aware of major agribusiness' efforts to lobby the FDA to lower organic standards so that agribusiness can participate in the growing organic market using many of the same techniques they currently use for non-organic foods. Non-organic foods are not profitable for major food producers but if they can lobby hard enough and grease enough lawmakers' palms so that standards are relaxed, they know they can take over the organic market, even though it will hardly be as "organic" as it was before they put their grubby hands on it. Wal Mart knows there's an excellent chance that Big Food will get its way in Washington and wants to position itself to cash in once it does.
5-13-2006 @ 11:54PM
Ralph said...
Being a dairy farmer for 35 years, I can tell you a few facts.
Organic milk is being touted as being superior to regular milk in many ways (nutrition, healthfulness, safety). To date there is no credible evidence to support these claims.
You should understand that all dairy products are subjected to rigorus and routine testing for any traces of antibiotics,pesticides,bacteria,and more, every day we send a tank of milk.
To say organic milk is better than any other milk is just not true.
Organic milk costs more to produce because the feeds to make it are more expensive, and yields are less.
For the producer this means even though you get more for organic milk, with input costs greater,you make no more money. Perhaps this is why more farmers are not switching to organic!
If you want a product you think might be better, be prepared to pay more,not less for it.
5-13-2006 @ 11:59PM
jackie said...
look, i am a healthy type I diabetic (have been for 20 years). i also grew up in a rural area. i also don't have health insurance. put all of that together, and i hate to say that i will have to support this STUPID wal mart s**t. don't get me wrong, i am co-president of my community garden, and i wish that my local "tazh ma teeter" *(harris teeter) was cheaper, but it's not. also, on a copletely different side note, my insulin is also chepaer at walmart by $10 a bottle (i use approx. 2 bottles a month). you can hate walmart, and god knows i do, but until there is a reasonable competitor it's hard for me to not buy from them.
5-14-2006 @ 12:04AM
Ryan said...
Pam, there are federal guidelines, and they are the very reason for you to worry. Current guidelines for chickens specify that they must be fed organic feed - unless it is not available or too expensive. This guideline was finally sneaked in despite widespread criticism and a massive write-in by voters when it was originally included in a massive budget bill. So unfortunately, federal guidelines mean we have to be more vigilant than ever. Don't imagine for a second that Walmart is gettin' all green and friendly. They are after profit, and if they can twist a few congressional arms to get the definition of organics changed to increase their margins, they will. So let's go ahead and support the availability of organics to the masses, who desperately need good nutrition and fewer pesticides, but do so with our eyes open.
5-14-2006 @ 1:05AM
Lu Jean said...
I've had mixed feeling about the huge conglomerate that is Wal Mart but I have to say that I am very happy about the organic food addition. My grandaughter has a very expensive disorder called Autism. Her parents are giving their whole energy and resourses for her treatment. One of the treatments is a switch to ALL organic food, along with no gluten or lactose. I'm so grateful to Wal Mart for taking away some of the financial pressure of giving her what she needs with affordable organic and specialty foods.
THANK YOU WAL MART!
5-14-2006 @ 2:38AM
Paula said...
I agree with the other Paula's comment that to have a product labeled organic it has to be USDA certified. So that is the label I look for. I went organic a year ago and my food bill tripled. Thank God all our children are grown and gone. Otherwise I doubt we could've gone organic. So I welcome any price reduction. Safeway has their own organic label but it has to be USDA certified before it can call itself organic. I say that the smaller health food stores should've brought their organic food prices down to a reasonable level years ago. I felt they took advantage because they were the only game in town. They also don't have the variety on fresh fruit and vegetables year round like the bigger stores. If they have their prices are outrageous. I paid $3.89 a lb for organic tomatoes at my local health food store. That was crazy. So any help to keep my food organic and my bill down is welcome. The smaller stores had their chance to keep things reasonable but could not.
5-14-2006 @ 2:43AM
Paula said...
This is in response to Ralph the farmer. My husband was raised on a dairy ranch himself and he tells me there is a difference between milks. Organic milk comes from cows that are not shot up with anibiotics or hormones, regular milk cows are. That is a big difference to me. My husband says that he thinks that the organic milk has a truer taste without the hormone/antibiotic shot up cows and the regular milk they produce.
5-14-2006 @ 2:49AM
Paula said...
I switched to organics like I said before about a year ago due to chronic headaches. I had 20 brain surgeries and they fixed everything but the headaches still were present. So it was suggested that I try organic. Eating things free of chemicals and antibiotics and you know what the headaches went away and I began to feel better and better everyday. It was so expensive that I felt guilty spending the entire months food budget in 2 weeks. With Safeway offering more and more organic foods it has helped drop my food bill tremendously. Ralph mentioned orgainc milk being more expensive. Well it was until I started to buy the Safeway organic label milk. I can get 1/2 gallon for $3.00 verses the local stores at almost $5.00 for the same amount.
5-15-2006 @ 10:34AM
Rick said...
For most folks, Organic food is as much a fad (and just about as worthwhile) as the South Beach Diet. Walmart is a savvy retailer and, if there's a buck to be made, will be only too happy to cater to whatever whims and fads are out there...for a profit. And what's wrong with that? As usual, they will undercut the competition so that these foody hypochondriacs (who want organic but don't need it) will just be screwing themselves a bit less than they otherwise would be in financing their hypochondria.
As for Ms. Gilbert, the originator of this nutty conversation, I really don't see her as a Walmart-basher at all, as some have suggested. A true basher is one of those people who have a political agenda that requires them, consistent with their conspiracy theory of history, to find fault with everything that Walmart is and does because Walmart is the epitome of successful capitalism (you know, that system that made America great and allows them to live a pampered life of whining and carping).
No, for Ms. Gilbert, Walmart is just a convenient straw man to further her own agenda. You see, she is not in the market for food in the first place, she is really buying cachet. Of course she would never find cachet at Walmart and should therefore continue to look down her nose at (and enjoy the rush of feeling better than) others who can't afford cachet.