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Should trans fat ban extend to your pantry? And what should be first to go?

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margarineFor nearly 10 years now, I've been fiercely guarding my shopping cart. The wicked would-be interloper: partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, also known as trans fats or trans fatty acids. And it's in everything, from wheat bread to soup to my favorite sticky candy bars. For a while, I was a lone voice and a lone label-reader, inspecting in the wilderness of my grocery store aisles without another soul to fight against the cheap, shelf-stable, yet bad-for-your-heart fat.

In the past few years, a growing public backlash against the stuff, known to contribute to heart disease and obesity, has led to its removal from many major products, from Lay's chips to sandwich cookies. Most Trader Joe's products are now free of the substance (and thus, it's my favorite place to shop). And then, this month, came the New York City ban: no restaurants will be permitted to use trans-fatty acids in cooking oils come July, 2007 -- and trans fats will be banned entirely from all foods available in restaurants by July 2008. This week the Washington State Board of Health announced it was considering a similar ban throughout the northwestern state.

Should you join me and New York City's best (and not-so-best) restaurants? Should you ban trans-fatty acids from your pantry, too? I looked at a bunch of products in my local grocery store to evaluate whether they were worth banning and whether or not my budget could manage it.

The first thing I noticed while walking through my grocery store aisles: things have changed! Many of the products that have been perennially marked off my list due to huge amounts of trans fats, from Oreos to breads to many frozen convenience foods, had either removed entirely or greatly reduced the trans fats. I'd taken this "black list" of products with tons of trans fats as my guide, and was surprised to see that, in some categories, it was a struggle to find a violator. Of course, as the FDA allows food manufacturers to round down, not up, your choice could contain up to 0.49 grams of trans fat per serving and still advertise "trans fat free" -- so you'll want to check labels for partially hydrogenated vegetable oils.

But let's get specific. What's the worst, and what's the best, in the aisles of my local Safeway Inc. (NYSE:SWY) store?
  • pillsbury biscuitsWorst: Pillsbury "Grands" refrigerated biscuit dough, 3.5 grams of trans fats per serving. I adore refrigerated biscuits, even though I shouldn't (and the darned things always scare me when they pop open). But my longtime ban on the pop-and-bake biscuits will just have to stay in force, as nearly half of the fat grams come from trans fats even though they advertise "better tastin'" and "homestyle." (Whose home, exactly, is that?) Pillsbury's "artificially flavored" buttermilk biscuits advertise no trans fats, and the Safeway-brand generic version of the buttermilk biscuit was also trans-fat free. Even so, I'll stick with my messier, far yummier option: my own homemade biscuits (packed with butter and cream).
  • Not in the foreseeable future: margarine, 1.5-2.5 grams of trans fat per serving, depending on the brand. Margarine was the first, greatest use of the cheap, shelf-stable trans fats -- and my family's table, like most every one in the 70s and 80s, was always topped with a cube or tub of the slithery stuff. At less than a dollar per pound for many of the cheaper brands compared to $3+ per pound for butter, margarine is also the budget choice.

    Don't let your body suffer for your wallet's good fortune -- in my house, butter is the only choice.
  • Pretty bad: Reser's dips and similar mass-produced dips, 1 gram trans fat per serving. While sour cream, onions, and clams are the label stars, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils make up far too much of this refrigerated product. These sell for $1.59 in my grocery store. The deli dips, an aisle over, are packed with good spinach and sour cream and no trans fats -- although their price is more than double.
  • Also still banned from my pantry: Pillsbury refrigerated sugar cookie dough, 1.5 grams of trans fat per serving. It's such a great idea: home-baked sugar cookies without the measuring and mess! But this whole category of products has always been stuffed with trans fats. Good news, though: change is a-coming in. Nestle's Tollhouse Cookies were free of trans fats, and not much more expensive than Pillsbury's sugar cookies in my grocery store.
  • Totino's or DiGiorno? While Totino's is certainly the cheaper option (you can often find the company's "party pizzas" for $1 at my grocery store), the package contains 0.5 grams of trans fats per serving, compared to none in DiGiorno pizza. Yes, DiGiornio is healthier -- but at more than three times the price, you'll probably want to make this decision on taste, not trans fat content.
  • Good surprises: Oreos, Cool Whip, and Orowheat bread, zero grams trans fat per serving. When I was in high school, you could give me a box of Oreos and a tub of Cool Whip and I'd be in heaven. But when I decided to remove trans fats from my diet, out went Oreos, and soon after Cool Whip was tossed to the way side. It was Trader Joe's Jo-jos and real whipped cream from there on out.

    Color me surprised during my label-inspecting trip to the grocery store this week. I picked up a tub of Cool Whip and was shocked to see 0 grams of trans fats on the label. I almost put a tub in my cart right then and there (but I only had diapers on my list...). Same with Oreos. Nabisco has managed to nearly eliminated trans fats from its famously chocolatey cookies. The store brand, "Tuxedos," still had several grams of trans fats in its formulation, though.

    Another big item on trans-fat black lists is white and wheat bread. Most major brands were chocked full of trans fats only a few years ago. But in my shopping trip, I was unable to find a loaf of bread in my local Safeway's aisles with more than 0.5 grams of trans fat per serving -- and most of proudly advertised "trans fat free."
  • Thank you Pepsi: Lay's Chips and Cheetos, zero grams trans fat per serving. Most commercially-available potato chips and cheese snacks were some of the first to switch to partially hydrogenated vegetable oils when they were first developed, and small chip makers like Kettle Brand and Utz set themselves apart by using healthier oils. But Pepsi's Frito-Lay division made a decision to switch to trans-fat-free oil in late 2002 and the market has been catching up since. Now most of the company's products boast "0 grams trans fat."
  • Healthy Choice is the healthy choice, zero grams trans fat per serving. While many of the budget options on the frozen foods aisle (like Banquet meals) still do have a small amount of trans fats, between 0.5 and 1 gram per serving depending upon the meal, none of the Healthy Choice frozen meals whose labels I inspected had any trans fats. Healthy Choice sounds like it will be my choice -- although, at about three times the price, this is another one I'd suggest you consider based on quality as well as trans fat content (the Banquet Chicken Nuggets Meal I brought home at my four-year-old's insistence was pretty icky, with all-dark-meat nuggets that my gourmet toddler refused to eat).

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Last updated: November 22, 2009: 05:18 AM

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