Cage-free eggs: What are you paying for, and are they better?


Cage-free eggs are the latest forefront in the constant PR campaign of many leading retail companies to be seen as the humanest, the most animal-friendly, the most vigilant about the health of its products. As indication of the bigness of this particular buzz-phrase, several weeks ago, Burger King Holdings Inc. (NYSE: BKC) announced a switch to both cage-free eggs and pork products. So important is the issue that when Portland, Oregon fast food chain Burgerville broadcast their own switch to cage-free, local media cried, when will Starbucks Corporation (NASDAQ: SBUX) switch all the eggs in its products (including its popular breakfast sandwiches) to cage-free?

The answer could be far more muddled than (for instance) the coffee giant's recent changeover to hormone-free milk or trans-fat-free baked goods. Here's the thing: it's not necessarily assured that cage-free eggs are the be-all and end-all of chicken humanity. And the costs go far beyond a little extra space.

This is not to say that I disagree with cage-free eggs, quite the contrary: I recently began raising chickens (Bella, Mathilda and Twitter are now six weeks old, and were recently joined by baby "sisters" Gilda and Genevieve) much because of the considerable health and taste benefits of cage-free eggs. Ideally (and in my own backyard), chickens who are not confined to cages get more exercise and a more balanced diet, including greens (they love blackberry and dandelion leaves). The eggs are therefore packed with good vitamins, making the yolks more orange and the shells sturdier -- whether brown, white, or pinkish.

But not all cage-free chickens are raised equally.
bella and mathilda
My chickens are spoiled already, and they won't lay eggs until August. Not so the chickens in large cage-free farms -- even the smaller, "better" ones. Doing away with cages may triple the value of a dozen eggs but it could also triple the cost; chickens are more likely to catch diseases when allowed to mingle, for one thing (and we're also trying to stay away from excessive antibiotics these days).

And there's another thing: cages keep chickens (not exactly the most even-keeled animals) from turning on one another. In close quarters and under poor conditions, chickens can become cannibalistic. In order to minimize this possibility -- after all, cage-free does not necessarily mean "freely roaming outdoors" -- chickens are kept in dim lighting and often have their beaks de-hooked so they won't harm one another if they start pecking.

All this is expensive, and what's more, questionable -- are chickens who are (as some activists say) mutilated a few days after birth and kept confined in huge barns under unnatural conditions, making them prone to disease, any better off than those in cages?

It's a tough question, and although I started buying cage-free eggs as soon as I brought home my chicks and and watched with delight as they chased each other for a yummy green treat, I'm not convinced that cage-free is the solution. (In fact, I'm convinced that my solution -- keeping pampered chickens in your backyard -- is by far the superior choice.) Will Starbucks change to cage-free eggs? Will cage-free be the next hormone-free? The answer is yet to come.

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Last updated: February 10, 2012: 08:16 AM

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