The Wal-Mart Weekly: Retailer accused of sweatshop conditions in Bangladesh


Welcome to the 80th installment of The Wal-Mart Weekly, a column dedicated to bringing you insight, wit, facts, results, opinions, and just a bit of everything else when it comes to a very hot topic these days: Wal-Mart.

This week, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. (NYSE: WMT) is under fire for alleged major human rights violations in some of its Bangladesh factories. Although global manufacturers have often come under fire for slave labor conditions in PacRim-area factories, could this really apply to a retailer? After all, a retailer is a distributor, not a manufacturer.

In most cases, this is true -- but not when it comes to Wal-Mart. According to a SweatFree Communities report, Wal-Mart workers in Bangladesh were made to work 19-hour days while being paid $20/month. Sounds like a raw deal, so let's take a look.




Sweatshop manufacturing is nothing new

In the quest for the almighty dollar, many large companies have made the decision to work with contract manufacturers who bid so low for projects that they are forced to barely pay employees while working them on an inhumane schedule. Think your 60-hour work week is a toughie? Try manufacturing widgets in some Chinese factories six days a week.

SweatFree Communities, an activist organization, accuses the world's largest retailer of buying school uniforms that were made under extreme sweatshop conditions in Bangladesh. There is a distinction, here: Wal-Mart itself did not make the uniforms under these conditions; one of its suppliers did. SweatFree is a five-year-old organization that works to get agreements from employers to not buy or use products that have been produced by violating the human rights of employees. No matter how you cut it, working 19-hour days, being kicked and beaten for showing up late to work and making below a national minimum wage is a human rights violation.

These results were gleaned from talking to 90 employees outside of work by SweatFree representatives. Wal-Mart received a draft of the SweatFree report in August, and released a statement to BusinessWeek a few weeks ago that stated: "Consistent with our concern for the workers and their working conditions, we took immediate action when we received the SweatFree draft report. We visited the factory unannounced and then met with the principal factory owner and our suppliers to ascertain conditions. Additionally, we proposed using an independent third party to work with factory management over the next twelve months to monitor factory operations."

Do you believe them? Wal-Mart admitted that it requested - several times - that SweatFree not release its findings, instead seeking to partner with the watchdog group to uncover labor industry abuses in Bangladesh. Wal-Mart reported that at least five other brands and/or retailers use the same factory for apparel production and that it was not alone in partnering with the facility in question. This brings us to the point of this column: do retailers and brand companies have any code of ethics publicly available that specifically references the use of sweatshop conditions with its own factories or those of manufacturing or marketing partners? Doubtful. If you find any, please list them in a comment below and tell me where you found it.

Why SweatFree singled out Wal-Mart

Wal-Mart was targeted by the labor watchdog group due to the belief that it was indeed the factory's largest customer, estimating that about 15% of the annual $11 billion of Bangladeshi garment orders went to Wal-Mart. SweatFree Communities' Executive Director Bjorn Claeson told BusinesWeek that "Wal-Mart has incredible economic muscle in that country ... if it takes the leadership position as a retailer and works with other brands, there is no question that it can really have an impact."

In typical watchdog fashion, SweatFree did not hold back the report. Censoring any results - regardless of who or what is affected - would be against everything a legitimate watchdog organization stands for. Of course, Wal-Mart reacted to the report that was released, agreeing to "partner" with SweatFree to find out just what was wrong with labor conditions at supplier factories where it has billions of dollars in apparel made annually.

Here is the problem, and one that global companies constantly fail at: labor conditions and supplier contracts are most likely left very vague. With such vagueness, retailers and manufacturers both can cut costs to the bone and gain more business. Thus, consumers see lower prices, the retailer sees more orders, the manufacturer sees larger shipments and the employees at the end of the food chain see rampant abuses. The entire burden falls upon them. What do you know: labor practices are conducted with nightmarish precision to eek out every single penny possible to keep the twisted commerce chain in place.

Sheepish customers

One thing I have constantly noticed with many middle-class American consumers is that they want so much for so little. The word "Free" in any area of marketing is met with sheep-like, numbing response. The cheaper the price, the more "value" many consumers see in the material items they purchase. The entire chain of raw materials to manufacturing to labor to shipping to distribution to shelf stocking does not occur to the bargain basement shopper. Would you rather pay $34.97 for a sweater that has been produced with organic cotton and "with pride" by employees here in the U.S. or pay $17.97 for a decent quality, sweatshop-made garment that is about as generic and cheap as possible? You can probably guess what the majority of American shoppers would choose.

Stay tuned right here next week for another edition of The Wal-Mart Weekly. Until then, have a safe week.

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