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Sustainable chocolate: Next must-have ingredient for snack companies

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Quietly, chocolate companies have been snapping up little makers of organic and fair trade chocolate; Cadbury, PLC (NYSE: CBY) started the trend by buying Green and Black's in 2005, and then Hershey (NYSE: HSY) jumped on the bandwagon, buying Dagoba Organic Chocolate in 2006.

Since then, fairly traded and organic chocolate bars have become more and more popular among consumers; while exact numbers are hard to find, organic chocolate sales have more than quadrupled since 2000 and were $94 million in 2007. Fair trade chocolate sales have been nearly doubling on a year-over-year basis since 2000.

In early March, Cadbury made a move to take advantage of this fast-growing market and heightening consumer concern over the treatment of cocoa farmers and the health of the tropical agricultural regions where the beans are grown. The U.K. company announced it would achieve Fair Trade certification for its Dairy Milk bars by the end of the summer.

Not to be outdone, by early April Mars Inc. announced it would go fair trade, too, starting with its Galaxy chocolate bars, a popular British variety. What's more, it would set a goal of buying all its chocolate from sustainable sources by 2020.

According to Mars, the criteria for fairly traded, sustainably-grown chocolate will include the agricultural practices, labor standards and production methods of its suppliers; and it's not just being done for PR reasons, but to ensure a steady supply from the often war-torn and drought-ridden African regions where chocolate is grown. Mars is working with the Rainforest Alliance for certification, whereas Cadbury is gaining its seal from the Fairtrade Foundation.

Mars and Cadbury, while front-runners in mass market chocolates, are not pioneers in the fair trade/sustainably grown candy market. A glance at the chocolate aisle at my neighborhood food co-op shows a wide array of feel-good, eco-conscious chocolate bars, including a line made by the Equal Exchange organization, both certifier and cooperative marketer of chocolate, baking products, teas, coffees and other snacks.

The move toward fair trade chocolate will be costly, and could very well constrict supply, but it is only one example of a precious ingredient whose production has so badly treated the land on which it has been grown, the people who grow and harvest it, and the global environment. If nothing is done to reverse course, the ingredient itself will disappear entirely. I predict other major chocolate makers will reluctantly and slowly follow suit, eventually driving up the price of chocolate considerably and (in all likelihood) decreasing its consumption in the western world.

The chocolate market is set to change quite drastically in the coming decade, and it will be a mark of a responsible and forward-thinking company to begin reformulating products and working with growers and activist agencies now.

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Last updated: November 24, 2009: 11:42 PM

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