Quietly, chocolate companies have been snapping up little makers of organic and fair trade chocolate; Cadbury, PLC (NYSE: CBY) started the trend by buying Green and Black's in 2005, and then Hershey (NYSE: HSY) jumped on the bandwagon, buying Dagoba Organic Chocolate in 2006.
Since then, fairly traded and organic chocolate bars have become more and more popular among consumers; while exact numbers are hard to find, organic chocolate sales have more than quadrupled since 2000 and were $94 million in 2007. Fair trade chocolate sales have been nearly doubling on a year-over-year basis since 2000.
In early March, Cadbury made a move to take advantage of this fast-growing market and heightening consumer concern over the treatment of cocoa farmers and the health of the tropical agricultural regions where the beans are grown. The U.K. company announced it would achieve Fair Trade certification for its Dairy Milk bars by the end of the summer.
Not to be outdone, by early April Mars Inc. announced it would go fair trade, too, starting with its Galaxy chocolate bars, a popular British variety. What's more, it would set a goal of buying all its chocolate from sustainable sources by 2020.
According to Mars, the criteria for fairly traded, sustainably-grown chocolate will include the agricultural practices, labor standards and production methods of its suppliers; and it's not just being done for PR reasons, but to ensure a steady supply from the often war-torn and drought-ridden African regions where chocolate is grown. Mars is working with the Rainforest Alliance for certification, whereas Cadbury is gaining its seal from the Fairtrade Foundation.
Mars and Cadbury, while front-runners in mass market chocolates, are not pioneers in the fair trade/sustainably grown candy market. A glance at the chocolate aisle at my neighborhood food co-op shows a wide array of feel-good, eco-conscious chocolate bars, including a line made by the Equal Exchange organization, both certifier and cooperative marketer of chocolate, baking products, teas, coffees and other snacks.
The move toward fair trade chocolate will be costly, and could very well constrict supply, but it is only one example of a precious ingredient whose production has so badly treated the land on which it has been grown, the people who grow and harvest it, and the global environment. If nothing is done to reverse course, the ingredient itself will disappear entirely. I predict other major chocolate makers will reluctantly and slowly follow suit, eventually driving up the price of chocolate considerably and (in all likelihood) decreasing its consumption in the western world.
The chocolate market is set to change quite drastically in the coming decade, and it will be a mark of a responsible and forward-thinking company to begin reformulating products and working with growers and activist agencies now.











Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
4-17-2009 @ 12:37PM
Rodney North said...
This move by Mars is important to more companies and more industries out there than folks realize. It is by no means just about chocolate or cocoa farmers. And if you think so you and your industry might be find yourselves unprepared.
The take away is that even in oligopolistic industries like cocoa/chocolate (where a handful of firms like Mars, Hershey’s, Cargill and ADM dominate) firms can only resist calls for reform for so long before they have to clean up their act – be it environmentally, socially or both.
You see, with all due respect to Sarah, on this issue Mars has proved to be far from a “responsible and forward-thinking company”, and what they are offering now is long overdue and comes only after _eight_ years of demands from not only a global coalition of activists and faith-based groups but even from the U.S. Congress.
I’ll spare you the details (you can read a little about that eight year fight at http://www.equalexchange.coop/child-labor-in-the-cocoa-industry ) but suffice it to say that when you look at this closely as a case study you’ll see that the big companies, including Mars, deployed all manner of stalling tactics but eventually had to give ground. And when they did they – in my opinion – did not look to solving the problems as much as finding the least expensive fix that would relieve the public pressure they were under.
For example, Mars is _not_ in fact adopting Fair Trade, even in part. Rather, they will begin selling – in 2010 and only in the UK/Ireland market – a chocolate bar that uses Rainforest Alliance certified cocoa. Unlike Fair Trade the Rainforest certification notably does not guarantee any kind of higher price for the cocoa farmers – making it the cheaper alternative for Mars, and less meaningful for the farmers.
As with many industries, especially those operating in poorer nations, the cocoa trade has a deep ugly side that the major players have resisted fixing – even while they manufacture a glossy face for the North American and European public. The book “Bitter Chocolate” by Carole Off paints a disturbing picture, and still only describes a portion of what’s wrong. The International Labor Rights Forum (www.ilrf.org ) and Global Witness help to fill out the picture. The issues include price-fixing, complicity with corrupt African governments and rebel groups, repeated efforts to drive down cocoa prices, and years of outright rejection of some of the reforms they are now begrudgingly adopting.
But, while these recent announcements amount to less than they would want you to think, they do still indicate that the world of commerce continues to _slowly_ , very slowly bend towards a kind of basic decency, so you better try to stay ahead of the curve.
~ Rodney North, spokeperson for Equal Exchange, www.equalexchange.coop
4-17-2009 @ 2:02PM
Tim Newman said...
Sarah, thanks for calling attention to the problems in the cocoa industry and the move toward more sustainable sourcing practices.
Rodney is right on with his comment above. It's important to remember that companies like Equal Exchange, Divine Chocolate and Sweet Earth Organic Chocolates had led the way in committing to higher ethical and environmental standards for years. It's also important to note (as Rodney did) that Rainforest Alliance certification is NOT the strongest available certification system available. Please see this press release from the International Labor Rights Forum about Mars' announcement which explains why Mars' commitment is important, but also why it's not enough: http://www.laborrights.org/stop-child-labor/cocoa-campaign/2010. You can also check out ILRF's chocolate company scorecard that ranks companies based on their labor practices here: http://www.laborrights.org/stop-child-labor/cocoa-campaign/resources/1942
These recent announcements are directly linked to the years of pressure from consumers and governments both in cocoa-producing and cocoa-consuming nations. In these times of economic crisis and CEO excess, let's remember that the farmers and workers who produce the products we buy deserve to be able to live a decent life and have their basic rights respected. Cadbury and Mars are taking a step in the right direction (Cadbury a MUCH bigger step because Fair Trade is a stronger system) and other companies like Hershey and Nestle SHOULD follow suit.
4-17-2009 @ 4:16PM
sarah gilbert said...
Rodney and Tim, thanks so much for your informative comments and the links! I *do* agree that Mars is not, by any means, a leader in responsibility and equitable ideals; and it's very interesting to see the equal exchange perspective and realize that Mars is not, after all, taking into account the labor component.
and Rodney, you'll be happy to know that the cocoa and chocolate bars in my cupboard are Equal Exchange :)
4-17-2009 @ 7:27PM
Rodney North said...
Sarah,
I am pleased to hear that about our products, and I did not think you thought of Mars as a l'eader'. I only meant to challenge the image of them as "responsible and forward-thinking". If one has to be prodded and pulled into action after 8 years one is not acting responsibly.
Regardless, I really think there is much more here than the media realizes. These recent steps by the industry are almost invariably viewed in isolation, and without any awareness of the backstory or how it fits in with the bigger picture (be that the historical trajectory or the wider global economy).
Consequently the public sees a few announcements or an ad campaign and go "oh cool - look at what XYZ corp is doing. That's nice" all the time completely unaware of what led to that moment.
Right now similar stories are playing out quietly with tea, bananas, textiles (an issue that has faded from the headlines even while the problems remain) and many other areas - both abroad and inside of wealthy nations like the US.