In China, the cows are badly malnourished, and the routine spiking of dairy products with melamine and other illegal substances has been an "open secret" for years, says the Wall Street Journal today in a detailed look at the dairy system there. At the root of the problem is a dairy industry rife with farmers who have no idea how to feed or care for their cows, and even if they do, would always choose the cheapest possible option; whether feeding them with straw instead of corn, or (it seems obvious) allowing them enough room to graze naturally.

That melamine should be added to milk is only the most deadly in a string of unethical practices, starting with ill-treatment of animals and continuing through routine addition of "protein powder," a nutrient-booster made of animal parts, soy, and other ingredients. This powder was added, not to contribute to the health of the customer, but instead to fool inspectors.

It wasn't foolish enough; inspectors learned to identify the additions, as well as the "fresh-keeping liquid" of preservatives and antiobiotics. Were the farmers upset about their lack of ethics? No, they were just concerned the milk would be returned to them and be "wasted." Enter melamine.

Melamine, a scrap byproduct of many Chinese factories, mimics protein in lab tests. And it is extremely cheap.